Jonathan Anderson’s Hire Makes History at Dior

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Style|Jonathan Anderson’s Hire Makes History at Dior

https://www.nytimes.com/2025/06/02/style/jonathan-anderson-dior.html

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His appointment as creative director of both women’s and men’s wear may mark not just a changing of the guard, but a shift in the paradigm.

a man in a khaki top with blue pants on walks on a white floor with people sitting behind him taking photos and clapping
Jonathan Anderson has been a part of LVMH since 2013 when he was named designer of Loewe. Over 11 years Mr. Anderson transformed Loewe from largely irrelevant to one of the hottest brands in fashion, with annual revenues estimated at $2 billion.Credit...Andrew Pain/EPA, via Shutterstock

Vanessa Friedman

June 2, 2025, 1:00 a.m. ET

In a historic, if long-awaited, move, on Monday luxury goods behemoth LVMH named Jonathan Anderson creative director of Dior for women’s wear, men’s wear and couture, making him the first designer to unite all sides of the brand since Christian Dior himself.

Mr. Anderson is “one of the creative talents of his generation,” said Bernard Arnault, chief executive of LVMH, in announcing the news — which also upends longstanding LVMH practice.

Since 2001, when LVMH transformed the Dior men’s line from a license to an integral part of the house, it has been conventional wisdom that no one designer can manage the burdens and pressures of both men’s and women’s wear, creating 10 different collections a year for what is now estimated to be a $9 billion brand.

Daring to rewrite those rules and concentrate all the power in the hands of a single designer is a risk for both brand and individual. But it also underscores the current precarious state of the industry, which has seen a broad slowdown in sales thanks to global political and economic unrest, and the general belief that a shake-up was needed.

Image

Mr. Anderson’s Loewe was marked by flights of incredible runway fancy, including trompe l’oeil tapestry, hoop skirts that appeared to float in the air, and bodices made to resemble an anthurium.Credit...Daniele Oberrauch/Gorunway.com, Thierry Chesnot/Getty Images

Mr. Anderson’s appointment qualifies. It is the final step in what has been one of the most-drawn out succession dramas in modern fashion history as well as another move in an unprecedented shifting of fashion’s creative landscape, with 17 different brands naming new designers in 2025 — four of them at LVMH alone.


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